Two years since witnessing a shark attack, I’m finally getting wet again.
Surfing never felt so good!
I have been avoiding surfing, my passion that I once used to revel in as much as twice a day. I am not kidding, it's actually got to the point where I don't think I can call myself a surfer anymore. Since I witnessed the shark attack and death of my friend Tadashi two years ago, I have struggled to get back into the daily flow of surfing. Excuses fill up easily, and I just have not managed to get back into the swing of things.
To be honest, it doesn't bother me much. I love surfing and it will always be in my life, I have simply lost the passion to surf every day. I have yoga, creativity, and I still manage to jump in the ocean often, so I don't feel I am missing out.
I have pangs of guilt that I don't take my sons surfing anymore, as there was a time when I was religiously taking them to the beach every Saturday. Remy actually dragged me away from my laptop yesterday, and down to Broken Head, whilst I decided I would raise some low vibes and start whinging about the wind and the busy car park. It's funny how nature, and kids, can change your vibes in an instant - from one side to the other and reverse!
Look at that smile!
After lying on the beach for a while soaking up some sun - and secretly loving every minute of it - Ryder came and asked me if I would take him surfing. When your son asks you to take him surfing, you don't say no, ever. This is my 101 active mama rule and I stick to it. So, wind chop and all, out we waded into waist-deep water and had an absolute ball.
Up, up and riding Ryder!
