Exploring the Rugged Beauty of Faro de Higuer – Artzu Portua, Hondarribia, Spain

Trail Length: 7.2km | Elevation: 249m | Loop Trail

Sunday trail walks have become our cherished family ritual since semi-settling in southwest France. While we typically venture into the Pyrenees for a dog-friendly hike (the regional parks are dog-friendly, the national park or ‘coeur’ – heart – of the Pyrenees is prohibited for dogs), but the arrival of little Sahara, with her aversion to long car rides and baby carriers, has prompted us to explore closer to home in the Basque Country of late. To our delight, we discovered a hidden gem tucked behind one of our favorite dining locations, Hondarribia: the Faro de Higuer – Artzu Portua trail.

The stunning Faro de Higuer trail, Hondarribia, Spain. Photo: Angie Richard

This easy-to-moderate 2-3 hour loop trail, just a 30-minute drive from our rental house in France, offers a serene 249m elevation undulating walk along the stunning Spanish Basque coastline. Utilizing the All Trails app, a recent addition to our hiking toolkit, we were able to find this picturesque trail on the interactive map, allured by a mix of ocean views, lush grassy patches, and fringing pine forest.

Ryder and Sage climbing natural rock stairs along the trail. Photo: Angie Richard

Setting off after midday with a light picnic lunch in our packs, we were greeted by the trail’s diverse landscape and mild temperatures, pleasant respite from recent sub zeros. Hunter, our young navigator, led the way, using the app’s offline map functionality (we like to be offline on our walks and only refer to digital GPS when needed). The path itself is a harmonious blend of oceanscapes and forestry. We chose to trace the coastline up and back, instead of completing it as a loop, mesmerized by the overcast skies and the ancient 'flysch' rock formations along the route – a breathtaking geological marvel over 100 million years old. Originating in the Pyrenees, these sequences of sedimentary rock layers progress from deep-water and turbidity flow deposits to shallow-water shales and sandstones, made when a deep basin forms rapidly on the continental side of a mountain building episode.

Spectacular ‘flysch’ rock formations all along the trail. Photo: Remy Richard

Despite it being a Sunday and an easily accessible trail typically popular with all kinds of walkers, we found peaceful solitude in the afternoon, with most hikers likely settled in for a meal after their morning walk. We nestled atop a flat rock platform to nibble on fresh jambon fromage baguette sandwiches, boiled eggs, dried fruit and nuts, enjoying the tranquil ocean views. Remy, reminiscing about his spearfishing days in Gabon, watched spearfishermen in the bays, while sailboats glided in the distance, motor-sailing presumably, catching light puffs of wind available further out to sea.

Sailboat along the coast. Photo: Hunter Takanami

The mild 14°C temperature was deceptive for winter, almost tempting us into the inviting rock pools and crystal-clear water. We decided to reserve that experience for spring when we’ll be joined by family from Australia.

In all, our leisurely walk spanned around three hours, inclusive of stops for photographs and our picnic. This trail is perfect for families and dogs, offering manageable elevations and captivating scenery. Do wear sturdy walking shoes, as parts of the trail can be muddy and slippery, especially when crossing running water streams and wet, rocky sections.

Trekking back up to the track through the grass from our picnic spot. Photo: Hunter Takanami

For an ideal day, start your hike in the morning and wind down with a lunch of pinxtos – delicious Basque finger food - in one of the quaint bars near the French border. A perfect blend of physical activity and culinary delight, this trail is great for anyone seeking an authentic Basque Country experience.

Photo: Remy Richard


useful Resources for Exploring Hondarribia and Beyond

Basque Country Tourism: Discover more about the region and its offerings at the official Basque Country tourism website Visit Euskadi. This resource is invaluable for planning trips, finding accommodation, and exploring local attractions.

All Trails App: For those interested in exploring more trails like Faro de Higuer – Artzu Portua, All Trails provides detailed trail maps, user reviews, and trail conditions. It's a great tool for hikers of all levels.

TopoPyrenees: For more extensive hiking information in the Pyrenees, check out TopoPyrenees. Although primarily in French, it offers in-depth guides and maps for serious hikers.

Local Weather Conditions: Before heading out, check the latest weather forecasts for Hondarribia on Météo France or AEMET to ensure safe hiking conditions.

Hondarribia Local Guide: For a deeper dive into what Hondarribia has to offer, including cultural insights, local eateries, and hidden gems, visit the Hondarribia Tourism Website. This guide can help you explore the town’s rich history and vibrant culinary scene.

Geology of the Basque Coast: For those fascinated by the 'flysch' rock formations and the geology of the Basque coast, the Geopark of the Basque Coast provides educational resources and information on geological tours.

Hiking Safety and Ethics: Brush up on trail safety and hiking ethics, especially when hiking with kids and pets, on sites like Leave No Trace. They offer valuable tips on how to responsibly enjoy nature.

Public Transportation in Basque Country: If you prefer public transport to get to the trail, consult Euskotren, which offers routes and schedules for trains and buses in the Basque Country. Coming from France, you can park next to the marina in Hendaye and catch the water taxi across to Hondaribbia for around 2€ per person each way. The Txik Txak bus network services Hendaye from Biarritz, Bayonne, and surrounds.


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