Photo: Remy Richard
Embarking on a 4-hour loop spanning 11km with an elevation of 660m, our trek to Mount Ursuia (679m) from Urcuray wasn't just a hike; it was a reconnection with nature's splendor in the heart of the Basque Country and our first real adventure since Sahara was born in summer.
The holiday season in France marks a distinct departure from my Australian summers growing up. Twenty years away from home, and the festive period in the southwest stirs a nostalgia within me, a yearning for the familiar warmth of family and Adelaide’s metropolitan beaches (though mum tells me that it was the coldest Christmas this year for 20 years!) With school on winter vacance, Remy between jobs, and my own respite before ramping up in the New Year, we sought a simple yet meaningful walk in vibrant Basque Country. Our hearts set on a local treasure, we embarked on a journey to the serene peaks of Mount Ursuia.
Our previous attempt at hiking with our newest member of the family, Sahara, reminded us to respect the weather. The southwest’s passion for persistent rain presented us with her fair share of challenges on the day despite a forecast of clouds and no real rain, but intermittent drizzle could not dampen our spirits, even when Sahara lost it for a solid 10 minutes invoking a rescue remedy of ‘The Happy Song’ on repeat until she fell asleep in her baby carrier on my chest. The ascent through mist-laden paths was a test of endurance (we’re no stranger to this, check out our epic Himalayan trek videos on our YouTube channel from several years ago), with the lush, verdant landscape around us, enriched by two months of heavy rain.
The grey veil of the sky occasionally lifted, granting us fleeting glimpses of the pastoral beauty that makes the Basque Country a hiker's dear friend. However, the distant vistas of Béarn and Bigorre remained shrouded in the clouds.
Photo: Angie Richard
Photo: Remy Richard
A maternal pause to breastfeed Sahara amid the emerald grass, accompanied by the quiet company of local horses, gave us a moment's respite, but more drizzle urged us onward. We pushed to the summit. Here, the boys contributed to the stone cairn—a testament to many fellow wanders and shepherds who've walked these paths before us. Sahara missed the peak, snuggled asleep on my chest. More rain and icy wind kept us moving. Sage (our Border Collie) was in her element, energy unbound, easily completing the hike several times over running back and forth between the boys ahead and Remy, Sahara and I lagging. The local wildlife—a tableau of horses, sheep, and even chickens—kept at a respectable distance by Sage who, as we documented in our most recent YouTube video during an encounter with a dove of donkeys, IS the chicken when it comes to mountain socializing.
Despite a precarious slip in the mud, Remy's bung knee hung on and though he and I felt ready to snap in half, our bodies made to through to the end. We were cooked, but we’d completed our first real hike in well over a year and the reward of an icy cold beer in Cambo les Bains was now in our sights.
These days in the mountains forever remind us of our essence that has guided us through harder times since settling in France following previous nomadic adventures, and they also excite us for voyages we have upcoming. But mostly, each step up or down a mountain is a moment to be completely in the present; it is a celebration of life, the gift of movement, an immersion in fresh air, diverse vistas, and the vibrant flora and fauna that adorn the trails. Having trekked the Himalayas with Ryder and Hunter several years ago during our overland Asia expedition, it’s exciting to be now priming Sahara for walks to come.
Mount Ursuia, a verdant gem amidst the Basque Country's rolling hills, is a symbol of the adventures that lie ahead as we create the Floating Stories Lab and pay homage to our interconnections with the outdoors.
Photo: Hunter Takanami
Useful Resources for Exploring the Basque Country
Official Basque Country Tourism Website: For comprehensive information on travel, accommodation, and attractions in the Basque Country, visit Euskadi Turismo. This official site provides valuable insights into cultural events, local cuisine, and outdoor activities.
Mount Ursuia Trail Maps and Guides: Access detailed trail maps and hiking guides through local tourist offices or outdoor retailers. Our favorite online resource for hiking in the region is TopoPyrenees providing user-generated insights and route information. We used this GPS map and GPX file loaded into our Gaia GPS app as the Mount Usuia walk is quite difficult to follow without GPS coordinates.
Weather Forecast and Climate Information: Stay updated on the local weather conditions by checking Météo France, which offers the most accurate weather forecasts for planning your hike.
Local Flora and Fauna Guides: For those interested in the rich biodiversity of Mount Ursuia, regional nature conservation organizations often have guides and booklets on the local ecosystem.
Transportation Services: The nearest airport is the Aeroport de Biarritz.
Cultural Etiquette and Language Tips: Learn about Basque cultural practices and pick up some useful phrases in Euskara (the Basque language) to enhance your travel experience.
Accommodation Listings: We are no longer affiliated with any accomodation listings but we personally use Booking.com when we are traveling around. This walk was 33minutes from our house so we did it in a day trip. If you’re interested in staying on the coast, we recommend Blue Ocean Eco Resort in Ondres (our friends are the owners).
Photo: Remy Richard
WATCH: Navigating Life’s Seas: The Miracle of Baby Sahara
This intimate vlog shares the backstory of our recurring miscarriages and the ultimate joy when we finally welcomed Sahara into our family. Join us for sailing, dolphins, hiking, donkeys, and the powerful moments that define our family's winding journey.
