Views of neighboring villages and pastureland along the trail. Photo: Angie Richard.
Our family's journey of outdoor wandering, inclusive of our unforgettable four-and-a-half-month backpacking trip across Asia in 2017, has been a fundamental ingredient in our lives. Adapting to life in France after years of nomadic living presented its challenges, particularly for someone like me, who grew up in Adelaide, South Australia but has always thrived in the vastness of nature, and Remy, who grew up barefooted in West Africa.
Despite early physical hurdles – I was born with dislocated hips and spent the better part of my first year of life in a hideous brace, rendered immobile – my father’s passion for hiking instilled in me a deep love for the wilderness. This love only grew stronger as I became a parent, driving me to share the beauty of the mountains with my children, and of course Remy, who the boys and I met just shy of a decade ago. Our trek through the Himalayas in 2017, a dream inspired by my parents' diaries from the 70s, solidified our family's identity as avid walkers.
Living beside the Basque Country, with its breathtaking landscapes, has been much needed peace for my restless soul. Balancing work, school, and family life, our Sundays are dedicated to exploring terrain here in southwest France. The arrival of our daughter, Sahara, and her aversion to long drives in her car seat, has shifted our focus to gentler, family-friendly trails, leading us to our latest sojourn through the serene Ahaxe-Bilgotza Pass.
A quaint stone cottage set beside the first section of the trail. Photo: Angie Richard.
This past weekend, an unusually warm winter Sunday beckoned us to this 9.17km loop near Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Offering panoramic views of the neighboring mountains and glimpses of the snowcapped Pyrenees, this trail meanders through rolling hills and pastoral landscapes. Starting our hike post-noon, we reveled in the well rained, verdant surroundings, with quaint villages in the distance, grassy mountains and rocky formations dotting our path.
Rock formations atop grassy mountains. Photo: Angie Richard.
The trail's midpoint offered us a spectacular vista – the distant Pyrenees rising through the gap. Despite a momentarily confusing turn, marked by a yellow cross on a post (follow the GPS in this instance, we downloaded the trail map from the All Trails application), our path led us through peaceful pastures, where we encountered what we thought were horses mourning their kin dead on the ground but was indeed just a uber-relaxed male horse basking in the sun. It was here, at the hike’s summit, that Sahara dictated our pause - she was ready for a breastfeed so we pulled out our picnic lunch.
Horses resting under the sun near our lunch picnic spot. Photo: Hunter Takanami.
The trail's second half led us across the mountaintop - birds of prey circling above - before winding down along an unsealed road. While we prefer more remote paths, the solitude and open spaces were still deeply fulfilling. Sahara's naps in her carrier - once with Remy and here on the return in my arms - marked a significant improvement from previous hikes.
Picking up again after lunch, this kind of terrain - off the roads - is where we feel at one with the vast space and verdant landscapes of the Basque Country. Photo: Remy Richard.
Our descent turned into an impromptu detective adventure, as we followed a trail of blood droplets, speculating about its origin. From an injured animal to a full-blown murder, imaginations were in full swing. Our curiosity was satisfied upon returning to the car park, where local hunters had gathered to enjoy their l’apero of pastis, two dear carcasses hanging from the cabin’s side roof rafters, and a UTE with blood stains down its back all explaining our ‘who dunnit’ game.
These Sunday hikes are coupled with a complete screen-ban at home, making for a day of physical exercise together as a family but also a chance for all of us to reflect on our connection with the planet and its intricate web of life. They remind us of the importance of being stewards of the Earth, and kinship, both lessons I hope to pass on to my children as we continue to explore the great outdoors.
Hunter wishing he had of worn shorts. Temperatures are fluctuating greatly this winter,
We hope you enjoy our journeys through the Basque Country and beyond as we seek to live regeneratively with nature and find our true roles as humans wandering our planets’ vast, outdoor spaces.
Not a bad picnic spot. Can you spy the Pyrenees in the distance? Photo: Angie Richard.
Useful Resources for Families and Walkers around Ahaxe-Bilgotza Pass and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port Visitor Information: For detailed insights into local attractions, accommodation, and family-friendly activities, visit the Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port tourism office website Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port Tourism. This resource is ideal for planning your visit and discovering activities suitable for families.
Family-Friendly Hiking Trails: Explore a range of hiking options suitable for families around the Basque Country on platforms like AllTrails or Wikiloc. These sites offer user-generated trail reviews and difficulty ratings to help you choose the right path for your family.
Nature and Wildlife Education: Engage with the local natural environment through educational resources provided by regional conservation groups. They often offer family-oriented workshops or guided nature walks.
Local Gastronomy: Discover the culinary delights of the Basque Country, which can be a great way to introduce children to new cultures.
Transportation and Accessibility: Reaching trailheads in the region and navigating around Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, it’s best to hire a car. Public transportation is limited in rural areas, though if time is not a constraint and you are equipped with camping equipment, walking can be your primary mode of transport in the region.
Weather and Safety Tips: Stay informed about weather conditions and safety tips for hiking in the mountains, especially with children. Weather in the Basque Country can change dramatically. Websites like Météo France provide accurate weather forecasts for the region.
This blog post is sponsor-free. The links provided are based on our experience, research, and recommendations.
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